Amaro Nonino

The Nonino family in Fruili, Italy, has a proud history dating back to 1897 when they first started making Grappa. They have refined it somewhat and their vast array of product is probably all a lot more elegant than the rocket fuel your bitter old grandfather used to make in his shed, but for the most part Grappa is Grappa and Nonino has been doing it better and for longer than most. One of their benchmark products is relatively new to the Grappa world, Amaro Nonino.

Amaro, translates to ‘bitter’ in Italian. Nonino, is  a term of endearment in Italian for grandfather in much the same why a child may say grandpa in English. So you may be forgiven for assuming Amaro Nonino may share some characteristics with your bitter old grandfather. And you wouldn’t be far off the money.

Held up to the light it is a deep reddish amber colour, 5 years barrelled in Oak will do that. The nose is immediately herby, with undertones of citrus. It is comparatively tight compared to the taste, somewhat like your old grandfather, guarded until you really make the effort to know him. And it’s when you do that you really get rewarded.

Your expectation of a fierce and fiery rocket fuel is pleasantly rewarded with gentleness, again comparable to the old fella who scowls when you fall over but gently guides you down the rest of the path. Tastes of anise combine with a light bitterness, tribute to its name sake (remembering Amaro translates to bitter) allowing for the upfront flavours required balancing the length. A puckering dryness reminds you of the tannin which further reminds you that grappa is after all derived from a grape product much like a wine. And much like a wine complexity is paramount. And complex is definitely an appropriate way to define the gorgeous grappa derived bitters, best enjoyed just above cold but definitely not warmed.

Complex, rich, warm, surprising and most of all startlingly gentle. Yep, that’s my grandpa, and that’s Amaro Nonino, now available at Rickys.